Reverse dye is the process of taking a colored garment and removing the color from it so it can be tie dyed.
Traditionally, people have used bleach to remove the color - which works fine - but requires an extra step to neutralize the bleach so it doesn’t eat through your fabric (I found this out the hard way on my first reverse dye project ever 15 years ago - though I probably didn’t even realize it was a “reverse dye project” at the time)
The way I do it (and most other tie dye artists), is using a product called Out White Brite. (I’ll refer to it as OWB from now on)
This is a laundry brightener product, but when you add it to boiling water, it will pull the color right out of *most* garments made of natural fibers.
OCCASIONALLY, depending on the dye used on your garment, OWB WILL NOT WORK - in this case, you may need to try the bleach route (However, I’ve never come across this personally, so I can’t guide you on that journey).
There's (at least) 2 different ways to reverse dye...
You can either sprinkle your OWB powder on top of your garment, and then pour boiling water over the top 0R you can add the OWB and the garment to a boiling pot of water.
If you want to do the pot method....
- DO NOT use a pot that you eat out of! And I DON’T RECOMMEND using a heating element that you eat off of either, this process can be messy and I’m not sure how these chemicals would effect cooking safety afterward. If you want to go this route - please get dedicated equipment for this process just to be safe.
- I personally use the pot method for my business so I can reverse dye a large volume of pieces at once... but since it requires dedicated equipment (large pots are insanely expensive), propane and sometimes unexpected flames (lol) - I am going to outline the pour over process, since this is the better way to get started for a beginner
Here’s what you’ll need:
- NATURAL FIBER CLOTHING ITEM (cotton/rayon/linen/tencel/viscose/bamboo/ect I linked my favorite 100% cotton zip hoodie here, but I have a larger list of vetted amazon blanks in our beginners tie dye supply list )
- ELECTRIC KETTLE (my preference, the bigger the better) or a large pot & stove to boil water in
- A CONTAINER that fits whatever you want to reverse dye inside (I linked a pair of containers that will fit an average garment.. you can often find cheap options at the dollar store too!
- PROCION DYE (Use code ERICA for 20% off Jacquardproducts.com)
- SODA ASH (Use code ERICA for 20% off Jacquardproducts.com)
- DAWN DISH SOAP (not required - this is just the best & cheapest laundry soap to remove unbonded dye. Any laundry detergent will work)
Additional tie dye items you may want: Sinew (for tyeing), rubber bands (for tyeing), squirt bottles (for liquid dye), ice (for ice dyeing)
Here's what you're gunna do (step by step)...
Here’s the step by step process for the pour over reverse dye method, which is what I recommend if you’re trying this for the first time on only a couple of pieces.
1. TIE YOUR GARMENT
- You’ll want to start with a piece that has already been tied up in the folding pattern of your choosing. I like to make sure my ties are nice and tight as to keep a little bit of the original garment color in the folds. This will create the contrast look that we want.
- This garment should be made of 95% natural fiber such as cotton, rayon, bamboo, linen, tencel, ect. POLYESTER WILL NOT WORK
2. BOIL YOUR WATER
- If you’re only reverse dyeing a couple of pieces - the easiest way is to use an electric kettle, or to boil a pot of water (if boiling inside on the stove, bring outside for the next step)
3. GO OUTSIDE & PUT ON A RESPIRATOR MASK & GLOVES - THIS PROCESS IS INCREDIBLY SMELLY. DON’T TRY THIS INSIDE!!!
4. PUT YOUR GARMENT IN A CONTAINER & COVER WITH OUT WHITE BRITE POWDER
- Use any container that you DONT eat with
- Fully cover the piece with OWB powder
5. ADD BOILING WATER
- Pour boiling water over the top of your garment and watch it start to change color.
- You may need to repeat this process a couple of times depending on how big your kettle is.
- You can also add more OWB powder if you notice some areas aren’t light yet
6. LET IT REST
- If I want as much color removed as possible, I wait a few minutes until my garment has lightened up before washing
- Black will lighten to Orange,
-
Pinks & blues will lighten to a more yellowy color
7. RINSE RINSE RINSE!
- Get as much of the loose dye and OWB chemical off of your piece. I will rinse vigorously and also soak if I have the time. More dye ALWAYS comes out
8. SODA ASH SOAK - 20 MINUTES (1 CUP SODA ASH + 1 GALLON WARM WATER)
- Mix 1 cup of soda ash to 1 gallon of warm water, mix thoroughly
- Add garment to liquid, make sure it is fully submerged and wait 20ish minutes before removing it (to make sure that all parts of the fabric are completely saturated in the liquid)
- Wring out thoroughly - It should not be dripping wet after this step (unless you’re going for a watery/ pastel look). The more liquid in the fabric = the less extra dye liquid the shirt will absorb.
9. TIE DYE AS USUAL!
- Grab some PROCION DYE (use code ERICA for 20% off Jacquard Products) and some ice or squirt bottles (depending if you want to ice dye or liquid dye)
- For ice dye: Place garment in container (can be same the one you used earlier), add dye powder on top of your fabric and then cover with ice (Or add ice first and then add dye on top - your choice!)
- For Liquid dye: follow instructions on dye to mix the right water to color ratio in your bottles - and then squirt away! Get that piece nice and saturated with liquid
- Wait 24-48 hours while ice melts - rinse with COLD water in your sink - then machine wash on HOT with a little bit of dawn dish soap (regular detergent works too)
- If you're new to tie dye and want a complete list of tie dye supplies.. everything is outlined here
And that’s it! If you try this out, let me know what you think!
*this guide contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission whenever you purchase a product on this list (at no cost to you) - this is a FREE way to support our small business
























